HI, 墨
M
2022.05
vol.09
Fashion
extraordinary
目录CONTENTS
1
彩墨品牌
ink brand
2
墨水风向标
Ink wind vane
3
墨水与艺术
ink and art
4
墨水测评
ink evaluation
5
传统植物染
traditional plant dying
6
文具探店
stationary explore
NOODLER'S鲶鱼
鲶鱼墨水如雷贯耳，除了它名字罕见，更多是因为他颜色丰富、价格低廉、还有鲶鱼老板兼所有墨水的开发人内森·塔迪夫（Nathan Tardif）亲自设计的墨水瓶上标签纸及其承载的政治信念。这个品牌的名字Noodler’s和鲶鱼标志都是源自空手潜水捕捉鲶鱼的活动。
塔迪夫崇尚空手潜水捕捉鲶鱼中体现出的平均主义，因为那时不论是金钱还是关系都不能在水下给你带来任何优势。于是，他也把平均主义的概念带入鲶鱼墨水的产品的各方各面。为了配制出更多的人用得起的墨水，他坚持一切墨水原料尽量当地购买，价格也在不赔钱的情况下尽可能低。
Tardiff admires the egalitarianism embodied in catching catfish by diving empty-handed, when neither money nor connections can give you any advantage underwater. So he brought the concept of egalitarianism to all aspects of his catfish ink products as well. In order to formulate inks that are affordable to as many people as possible, he insists that all ink ingredients be purchased as locally as possible, and at the lowest possible price without losing money.
Catfish ink is familiar, not only because of its rare name, but also because of its rich colors, low price, and the label on the bottle designed by NATHAN TARDIF, the owner of Catfish and developer of all the inks, and the political beliefs it carries. The brand's name, NOODLER'S, and the catfish logo are both derived from the activity of diving empty-handed to catch catfish.
sailor写乐颜料墨水
墨水风向标 ink wind vane
雨声系列钢笔墨水
penonia
robert oster
蓝侬道具屋
颜色鲜艳的颜料墨水“storia”更新。能享受混色了。因为有8种颜色，1:1比例的情况下可以享受64种组合。实际上如果改变比例，加上专用的淡定液(含税1,100日元)等，是隐藏着数不清的乐趣的墨水。因为不能和以前的sailor混色，所以需要注意。20ml·87rmb
红色
橙色
绿色
黄绿色
紫色
粉红色
黄色
蓝色
日本樱花系列/日本樱花系列
继2020年发售的SHIKIORI -四季织一雨声系列钢笔之后，墨水登场了。钢笔是以雨的名称来命名的，而墨水则是以联想到雨的拟声词来命名的。通过季节变化的草木的姿态，以及雨和雨后的印象的色彩，描绘出略带刺鼻的淡色。
·20ml·56RMB 墨盒:3瓶·含税20RMB
来来来
忐忑不安
孤零零
潇潇
金线液变得更容易使用了
penonia的墨水专用金线液被改良了。粘性极低，非常容易书写。在容量不变的前提下，容器也要变小巧，使用起来更方便。
金线液·全23色·金线15g· 93RMB
追加了6种新颜色。
来自匈牙利的墨水品牌penonia的新颜色登场。明亮生动的6种颜色。可以用另外出售的专用金线液制作原创的环保墨水。瓶身采用了新包装，容量为60ml。染料·60ml·133RMB
阿比盖尔
丹第狮
蓝调布鲁斯
天鹅绒香槟
帕迪娜
黑鹰
澳大利亚金眼墨水系列第九弹
罗伯特·奥斯特
澳大利亚的罗伯特·奥斯特的墨水系列第9弹，6种颜色全部是金线墨水。根据丰富的金线量，非常华丽的彩色是魅力。其中，“nofix地址”的蓝色金线在红色墨水上闪耀，给人留下了强烈的印象。
染料·50ml·220RMB
银环
水晶马林
格林吉尔特
施瓦茨玫瑰
蓝丝绒风暴
门裙
让人想起温暖冬天的限定墨水
冬令进补/冬令进补/冬令进补
冬林珍芙是台湾的炖煮料理，在寒冷的冬天温暖身体的风物诗。以那个材料为主题的2022年冬季限定墨水4色登场。是稍微淡和善的色调。
染料·30ml·144RMB
《客中作》 唐 李白
兰陵美酒郁金香，
玉碗盛来琥珀光。
但使主人能醉客，
不知何处是他乡。
墨水与艺术ink and art
The Guest in lanling Tang. Li Bai
The wine of Lanling smells like lush gold.
The jade bowl is filled with amber light.
But if the host can make the guest drunk
I don't know where is the other country.
墨水与艺术ink and art
待到秋来九月八，我花开后百花杀。冲天香阵透长安，满城尽带黄金甲
In terms of the film's title, "A City Full of Golden Armor", this line is taken from the last line of Huang Chao's "Fugue Chrysanthemum After No First".This movie gives us an audio-visual feast to enjoy. Golden glaze, openwork carved corridors, golden uniform costumes, ornaments, headdresses, gorgeous carpets ......, warm-toned items are extremely luxurious, but it is through such exaggeration that the film allows the viewer to truly feel the extravagance and prosperity. In fact, beneath the surface of opulence, full of dirt, mother and son fornication, husband and wife rebellion, brother mutilation, everything is carried out under the magnificent appearance.What is tragedy? As Lu Xun said: tragedy is the destruction of beautiful things for people to see.All the beauty is destroyed in the Great War of the Chrysanthemum Festival, from vividness to death, from integrity to brokenness, and from yellow chrysanthemums all over the ground, with very layered and conflicting colors. The war is over, a very short period of time, thousands of yellow chrysanthemums a pot repositioned on the countertop, bright and heavy carpet was replaced with a new one, the war left a full step of the stinging blood was washed clean. Everything has regained its prosperous and graceful skin. The chrysanthemum is broken, full of wounds.
从影片名字来说，《满城尽带黄金甲》，这一句取自黄巢的《不第后赋菊》的最后一句。
这部电影给我们享受了一场视听盛宴。黄金的琉璃，镂雕的走廊，金色统一的服饰，摆设，头饰，华丽的地毯……，暖色调的物品极尽奢华，但是影片正是通过这样的夸张，让看客们真切地感受到奢靡与繁荣。事实上，在富丽堂皇的表面之下，满是污垢，母子私通、夫妻反目、兄弟相残，一切都在华丽的外表之下进行着。
什么是悲剧呢，正如鲁迅所说的：悲剧就是把美好的东西毁灭给人看。
重阳节大战，所有的美好全部毁灭，鲜活到死亡，完整到破碎，满地黄菊，色彩极具层次且具有冲突。大战结束，极短的时间内，成千上万的黄菊一盆盆重新摆在了台面上，明艳繁重的地毯又被换上了新的，大战留下的满台阶的刺目的鲜血被冲刷得干干净净。一切又恢复了繁华雍容的面皮。
菊花残，满地伤。
《满城尽带黄金甲》
墨水与艺术ink and art
《Remember the Time》是Michael Jackson的一支单曲。Michael的嗓音在这首歌中尤其性感迷人，就像这首歌的MV中他优雅华美的古埃及风情装扮那样，让人兴奋而吃惊。Michael擅长的口技在这首歌中展现得十分充分，甚至在演唱唱词时直接用口技作伴奏，在展现绝妙的唱功之时，Michael迷人的嗓音也让人如醉如痴Michael Jackson在剧中扮演一个博得郁郁寡欢的埃及王妃Nefertiti芳心并因此激怒法老惹来杀身之祸的魔术师。 “变身”特技再一次出色的运用，Michael Jackson的以金色细沙中褪现最终又变成金色细沙随风而逝。舞蹈部分也相当不错。整个音乐录影中， Michael 看起来似乎比其他舞者努力10倍——当然他也要负责所有的演唱部分。
I Know 我明白That You Want To Try Me 你在想我Every Time You See It 每时每刻都能浮现眼前Do You Remember 你可曾记得When We Fell In Love 当年我们坠入爱河We Were Young and Innocent Then 我们都还年少而天真无过Do You Remember 你可曾记得How It All Began 这一切是怎样开始的It Just Seemed Like Heaven 感觉美妙如同天国So Why Did It End? 可它却已终结，这是为何？
Michael's voice is particularly sensual in this song, as is his elegant and flamboyant ancient Egyptian costume in the video for the song, which is exciting and surprising. Michael Jackson plays the role of a magician who wins the heart of the depressed Egyptian princess Nefertiti and thus angers the pharaoh and brings about his death. "Transformation" stunt once again excellent use, Michael Jackson's to the golden sand in the fade eventually turned into golden sand with the wind and gone. The dance part is also quite good. Throughout the music video, Michael seems to be working 10 times harder than the other dancers - and of course he's responsible for all the singing parts.
《remember that time》
墨水与艺术 ink and art
1930年推出，富丽堂皇，号称世界上最昂贵的香水。尽管那时正是世界大萧条的背景。JOY却是“世界上成本之最贵”的香水，仅30毫升的香水，就需要至少10000朵茉莉和28打玫瑰，取名“JOY”，就是希望成为晦暗日子里的一抹亮色。JOY初味的流溢，保加利亚玫瑰和格拉斯五月玫瑰及茉莉组合而产生的芬芳，鲜艳而绚丽；
Launched in 1930, JOY was the most expensive perfume in the world. Despite the background of the Great Depression, JOY was the "world's most expensive" perfume, requiring at least 10,000 jasmine and 28 dozen roses for just 30 ml of perfume, named "JOY" in the hope of being a bright spot in a dark day. The overflow of the first taste of JOY, the fragrance of Bulgarian rose and the combination of May rose and jasmine from Grasse, is bright and gorgeous.
JOY瓶身设计是当时建筑和内部装潢设计师Louis Süe的得意之作。他严格遵循了古希腊建筑“黄金分割”准则，使整个瓶身看似简单，却隐隐透出高贵典雅的大器。而JOY瓶盖上密封的结全都是用金线全手工精心打就而成。法国首席水晶制造商巴卡莱特公司(Baccarat)更在1974年特别为JOY订做了一款水晶瓶身，这款精致的多面水晶瓶有着裙衬般的优美线条，每一瓶上都有手工刻制的编号作为限量销售的标志。
The design of the JOY bottle was the brainchild of Louis Süe, an architect and interior decorator of the time. He strictly adhered to the "golden rule" of ancient Greek architecture, so that the entire bottle looks simple, but hidden elegance of a large tool. The sealed knots on the JOY cap are all carefully hand-tied with gold wire. In 1974, Baccarat, the leading crystal manufacturer in France, made a special crystal bottle for JOY, an exquisite multi-faceted crystal bottle with skirt-like lines and a hand-engraved number on each bottle as a limited edition mark.
墨水测评 ink eveluation
从《唐六典》关于诸道贡赋记载,就可知诸道织绫局生产了千百种色彩华美的绫罗锦缎、毛织物和百余种植物纤维加工精织的纺织品。在唐朝亦设有“染院”,专司染色工作。在皇宫内的建筑中,也有一个专给染色用的“暴室”,位于未央宫的西北处。当时官服也严密的规定,三品以上是穿紫色,四品、五品穿红色,六品、七品穿绿色,七品以下穿青色。这些色彩的服装是专供官方使用,一般百姓是不可以使用的。皇帝的黄色是以柘木(一说是黄栌)所染成的。黄色在五行中是属于中间的象征色彩、中间对中国人而言，是最尊贵的位置。以后逐渐变成了皇帝的专用色彩。在实际证物方面,从新疆吐鲁番古墓出土的许多织物中可以发现,隋唐时期已经出现印染的染色技巧，色彩也有20多种。所用的染料大致上是以植物性染料为主。
From the "Tang Six Classics" about the tribute of the provinces, it is clear that the weaving bureau of the provinces produced thousands of colorful damask, brocade, woolen fabrics and more than a hundred kinds of plant fiber processing finely woven textiles. In the Tang Dynasty, there was also a "dyeing institute", specializing in dyeing work. In the palace building, there was also a "storm room" dedicated to dyeing, located in the northwest of Weiyang Palace. At that time, there were also strict rules for official uniforms: purple was worn above the third rank, red for the fourth and fifth ranks, green for the sixth and seventh ranks, and cyan for the seventh rank and below. These colors of clothing is exclusively for official use, the general public is not allowed to use. The emperor's yellow is dyed with cudgel (said to be sumac). Yellow in the five elements is the middle of the symbolic color, the middle for the Chinese, is the most honored position. Later, it gradually became the exclusive color of the emperor. In terms of actual evidence, from many fabrics unearthed in the ancient tombs of Tulufan in Xinjiang, it can be found that the dyeing techniques of printing and dyeing already appeared in the Sui and Tang dynasties, and there are more than 20 kinds of colors. The dyes used were generally vegetable-based dyes.
传统植物染
唐宋元时期
Tang, Song and Yuan Dynasties
唐代染院dyeing institute
苏绣 Su embroidery
卷云纹 Curly cloud pattern
粤绣Cantonese embroidery
蜀绣 shu embroidery
楚绣 chu embroidery
传统植物染
根据《唐六典》第22卷的记载,唐代的染色工坊有六处、分别专门染青、绛、黄、白、皂、紫。由此更可看出唐代的染色已经达到了相当的规模。《唐六典》第22卷里,也有：“凡染，大抵以草木而成，有以花叶，有以茎实，有以根皮。出有方土，采以时月。”
唐代的印染技术全面发展而且成就斐然,这时的绞缬、夹缬、蜡缬都出现了惊人之作，套染、多重色彩的套印、手绘都开始发展。除缬的数量、质量有所提高外,还出现了一些新的印染工艺，如凸版拓印、用碱作为拔染剂印花;用胶粉浆作为防染剂印花,还有用镂空纸板印成的大族折枝两色印花罗。唐代的粉浆镂空版防染印花法,无疑曾接受了新疆地区兄弟民族的经验。这种印染品宋代叫“药斑布”,唯其版模更精细，调浆技术也有改进,这就是“灰缬”。在甘肃教煌出土了唐代用凸版拓印的团果对禽纹绢，这是自东汉以后隐没了的凸版印花技术的再现。代表这个时期印染技术的纺织物如图1-6-图1-10所示。
According to the 22nd volume of the Tang Six Classics, there were six dyeing workshops in the Tang Dynasty, specializing in dyeing green, vivid, yellow, white, soap and purple. This shows that dyeing in the Tang Dynasty had reached a considerable scale. In the Tang Six Classics, volume 22, there is also: "Where dyeing, by and large, made of grasses and trees, some with flowers and leaves, some with stems, some with roots and skins. Out of a square of soil, picked to time and month."
Tang dynasty printing and dyeing technology development and achievement, this time the twisted val, folder val, wax val have appeared amazing work, set of dyeing, multiple color overprint, hand-painted are beginning to develop. In addition to the number of val, quality has improved, but also appeared some new printing and dyeing process, such as letterpress topography, with alkali as dyeing agent printing; with rubber powder paste as dyeing agent printing, and with hollow cardboard printed into the big family folded two-color printing Luo. Tang dynasty powder paste openwork version of the anti-dye printing method, no doubt has accepted the experience of brotherly peoples in the Xinjiang region. This kind of printing and dyeing products called "medicine spot cloth" in the Song Dynasty, only its version of the mold is more fine, adjust the slurry technology has also improved, which is "gray val". In Gansu taught Huang unearthed the Tang Dynasty with a letterpress topography of the group of fruit on the bird pattern silk, which is since the Eastern Han Dynasty after the reappearance of the letterpress printing technology disappeared. Representing this period of printing and dyeing technology of the textile as shown in Figure 1-6 - Figure 1-10.
云锦
楚锦
蜀锦
宋锦
盛唐时期，夹缬印花的作品图案纤细流畅,又有连续纹样，已不是上述技术所能实现的。据专家推测，这时已能直接用油漆之类作为隔离层，把纹样图案描绘在纱罗上,因此线条细密，图案轮廓清晰，纹样也可以连续。这种工艺可称为“筛罗花版”，或简称“罗版”。这种设想已为模拟试验所证实。唐代诗人白居易有“合罗排勘缬”。“排勘缬”的全面是依次移动两页罗花版，版版衔接，印出美丽的彩色花纹图案。这句诗,正是对当时夹缬印花的描述。夹缬也有染两三种颜色的。现在日本京都市正仓院还保藏着我国唐代制作的夹缬和蜡缬的山水，鹿草木，鸟木石、象纹等的屏风,已属艺术珍品。
During the Tang Dynasty, the pattern of the work of valleys printing is slim and smooth, and there is a continuous pattern, which is not achieved by the above technology. According to expert speculation, this time has been able to directly use paint and so on as isolation layer, the pattern pattern is depicted on the sarong, so the line is fine, pattern outline is clear, pattern can also be continuous. This process can be called "sieve Luo flower version", or simply "Luo version". This idea has been confirmed by the simulation test. Tang dynasty poet Bai Juyi has "together Luo row Kan Val". The "row of Kan val" comprehensive is in order to move two pages of Luohua plate, plate and plate articulation, printed out beautiful color pattern pattern. This line of poetry, is the description of the time clip val printing. There are also two or three colors of valerian dyeing. Now Japan's Kyoto City, Shokura Institute also has a collection of China's Tang dynasty production of valer and wax valer of landscape, deer grass wood, bird wood stone, elephant pattern screen, etc., has been a treasure of art.
传统植物染
到宋朝时期，我国的印染技术已经比较全面，色谱也较齐备。明代人方以智的《通雅)记载，宋代仁宗时，京师染紫十分讲究,先染青蓝色,再以紫草或红花套染,得到“油紫”,即深藕荷色,非常漂亮。同时金代时染得的紫色则更为艳丽。
对于元朝时期的印染技术,明代杨慎在《丹铅总录》中说:“元时染工有夹缬之名,别有檀缬、蜀缬、浆水缬、三套缬、绿丝斑缬之名”。名目虽多,但印染技法仍不出以上范围。
During the Song Dynasty, China's printing and dyeing technology was more comprehensive, and the chromatography was more complete. According to the Ming Dynasty's Fang Yizhi's "Tong Ya", when the Song Dynasty's Emperor Renzong, the capital dyed purple with great care, first dyed greenish blue, then dyed with comfrey or red flowers, to get "oil purple", that is, deep lotus color, very beautiful. At the same time, the purple dyed in the Jin Dynasty was more colorful.
For the yuan dynasty period printing and dyeing technology, the ming dynasty Yang Shen in the "DanLing general record" said: "yuan time dyeing workers have the name of the folder val, and have sandalwood val, Shu val, paste water val, three sets of val, green silk spot val of the name". Although there are many names, but the printing and dyeing techniques are still not the above range.
传统植物染
状花缎 flower-like satin
状花缎 flower-like satin
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